mustang cuts out and dies after warm up
Resources Latest reviews Search resources. R5 - this is the resistor that 'protects' the CPU pin - if it isn't soldered properly, no signal will get through it to the CPU, so check it very carefully to make sure it is the right value, well soldered, and not bridged to other nearby components. What about automatic transmissions? Comprising a heavy cast iron frame xxmm with slotted end pillars to carry a stout iron bar. I would not waste the ridiculous amount of time i spent trying to replace components and just buy a used cluster.
Reassemble using the new lenses and bezel. People who have engines with separate cylinder banks V6, V8, etc. Can I do sequential injection? If not, touch up the soldering on the MAP sensor pins. Ignition switch wiring http: Go to Part II.
Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark. Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped B.
PIP sensor in distributor. See paragraph 5A — Using a noid light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch. ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires models only: Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. No ECC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty.
If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown. Doing so invites an electrical fire. Ignition fuse links may be replaced with an inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes. Check inside fuse panel for fuse 18 blown — 20 amp fuse H. Missing or loose computer power ground.
The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery. You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness I.
Bad or missing secondary power ground. It is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position.
Hold the switch in the crank position: Good 12 volts, then replace the TFI. No 12 volts, replace the ignition switch. Ignition switch wiring http: You can navigate to the diagrams yourself via Repair Info AutoZone. That will enable you to bring up the wiring diagram for your particular car. Spark at coil wire, pull 1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark.
Spark Plug wires E. Spark at spark plug, but no start. Next, get a can of starting fluid ether from your local auto parts store: Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. It is specially made dissectible for demonstration purposes. The beam carries a sliding weight to indicate the weight from 0 to 5kg in divisions of 20 grams each.
One hanger and one slotted mass is provided to increase the capacity of the balance. When only the hanger is suspended from the end of the beam the capacity increases to 10 kg and the reading starts from 5 kg onwards on the scale up to 10 kg.
On adding the slotted mass on to the hanger the capacity increases to 15 kg and the reading starts from 10 kg onwards on the scale up to 15 kg. The tray is detachable and can be easily replaced in position by sliding on to fixed plate. Second scale is provided which reads 0 to 1 kg in division of 10 gms. Making the total capacity of balance 16 kg in to 10 gms. Levelling screw for zero adjustment: Capacity Subdivision A 1 B 2 C 2. Comprising 1x gm 1x gm 2x gm 1x50 gm 1x20 gm 2x10 gm 1x5 gm 2x2 gm 1x1 gm Request Callback.
Bell Jar in Vacuum. Fine coiled wire connections to terminals mounted in rubber bung sealing the jar. Sphere of 5 cm. Diameter on insulated stand, complete with hemispherical cups, having insulated handles.
Spherical conductor, conical conductor cylindrical conductor are also available. A sensitive aluminum vane is balanced in a vertical position on a metal support which is insulated from its base. The vane is easily observed and projected on a chalkboard Light Source, not included on which an arbitrary scale has been marked.
Height without attachments is about 9". Four attachment, each equipped with a banana plug which fits the vane system top are included a 1" conducting sphere a 3" conducting sphere a proof plane with detachable insulating handle and an aluminum cup Faraday ice pail.
Attachments can be charged using either our Electrophorus or our Power Supply not included. Size 6 cm long, overall length when extended 16 cm: A Bucket and Cylinder. B Bucket and Cylinder Large. The hangers have double hooks for specific gravity experiments and pans are detachable. The balance is finished in black colour with chrome plated fittings and mounted on polished wooden base with leveling screws.
Capacity Sub-division 10 kg. Comprising 1x gm 1xgm 1xgm 2xgm 1x50gm 1x20gm 2x10gm 1x5gm 2x2gm 2x2gm 1x1gm Request Callback. Capacity Sub-division A gm. Comprising a heavy cast iron frame xxmm with slotted end pillars to carry a stout iron bar.
The bar is threaded at one end for a large tensioning nut and has holes at the other end to accommodate the cast iron breaking bars. Supplied complete with ten breaking bars. Bell in Bell Jar. They have a brushed-polished surface and a sweet sound purity. This brain turner sets are used by sound therapists and users around the world. Each tuning fork is checked by us before shipment frequency accuracy!
Outer vessel fitted with detachable clip type thermometer support. Calorimeter with Wooden Box. Cathode Ray Mechanical Effect.
Collision in Two Dimensions. The apparatus comprises the following items: A curved wooden runway and its highest point, having a groove down which a steel ball may be rolled An object sphere support. This is an adjustable device which attaches to the mounting plate of the runway and will support a ball either exactly opposite the end of the runway for head-on collision or slightly offset for oblique impacts A plumb-bob for making the plumb line Two spheres steel ball bearing 19 mm diameter.
Comprising a length of bimetal strip x15mm mounted in a wooden handle. The strip is only 1mm thick so that very little heat is required to produce considerable bending. Length overall mm approx. Four different sections circle, ellipse, parabola and hyperbola held together by a pin and easily taken apart for demonstration.
Can be dissected in 5 parts. Dimensions are in mm: Used for collecting the liquid overflow flowing from displacement vessel. Providing for precise working performance, these compasses support magnetic and true north as well as provide support for displaying of location coordinates. Some of its features include supports high definition display; provide support for calculating true north; durable and attractive construction design finish among others. A mm needle in an aluminum frame, with needle pivoted between upper and lower glass plates.
Also, if the volts at the processor pin gets very near 5. The ADC count result from the voltage divider circuit above is: The default value is 2.
Note that you have to re-calibrate the thermistor tables when you change resistor values. Here is a simple ADC count calculator that shows the number ADC steps for a given bias resistor and sensor resistance. If the ADC count values are very high or very low at your sensor's resistance at a given temperature , the temperature range may be restricted: For air-cooled use, side of the argument says to use the CHT over the oil, as the oil takes over twice as long to get to operating temperature than water in a water-cooled car does.
The engine does not need to run rich for long periods, only enough to keep the car driveable while it is warming up. Once the cylinder head is up to temperature, the car is usually quite driveable. For an air cooled engine you can drill and tap into a fin in the head for the CHT sensor. The other side of the argument says that it does not matter if the oil warms more slowly, you can just set the warm-up enrichment to come off at a lower temperature.
In that case, the GM coolant sensor fitted in the oil sump will work nicely. Search the archives for extensive discussions on these points. It is your decision. Some people have managed to make their engines function reasonably well without a TPS. This is not recommended with the standard code, however. You will need a TPS that is really a potentiometer and not a switch. A real TPS gives a continuously varying signal with changing throttle.
There is a third wire going to ground. Switch it to measure resistance. The resistance between two of the connections will stay the same when the throttle is moved. The throttle position sensor is used for flood clear mode and EGO enrichment, as well as accel enrichment:.
This will ensure that you are not in flood clear mode while cranking ideally, your TPS at closed throttle will be 20 or less , and yet still able to activate flood clear mode. Many TPS are adjustable by loosening the screws and rotating it a bit. You should recheck the TPS range each time you change the idle position or reassemble the throttle linkage. Unlike a cold start injector, it does not handle fuel at all, only additional air.
The fast idle solenoid is not the same as an IAC motor, or anything that is controlled like a stepper motor. It is either open or closed. Such solenoids have been used often in modern cars, frequently to control EGR valves. The fast idle solenoid takes clean air from the air cleaner and allows it to bypass the throttle and go directly into the intake manifold. The fast idle is simple. There are simply too many different stepper motor types out there General Motors uses bipolar, some Chryslers use unipolar, others use PWM proportional control, etc.
Also, the control of all of the different types of IAC motors out there would be a support nightmare. SDS sells a air bypass valve which you could use for a fast idle solenoid. You may be able to get one at a wrecking yard. There may be an idle speed screw in the throttle body that is blocked by a small metal plug. Remove that plug and you will see a conventional idle speed screw. It is easier to make fine adjustments in the field with this screw than it is with the IAC.
It can take 12 volts from the relay board, and be grounded at the solenoid or at any common ground, OR it can be fed 12 volts from a switched supply separate from the relay board and then be grounded by the relay on the Relay Board when the DB37 connection causes the relay to close by providing a ground.
The second instance supplies a ground when FIdle is activated mimicking the DB37 pin. If you are designing you own wiring system and using an 'off-the-shelf' vacuum solenoid with two wires, you can do it either way, so long as the solenoid isn't grounded through the case. On the relay board PCB, there is a spot with three holes in a silkscreen box, and a G and V beside it. This is between the two relays nearest the DB37 end - it is marked J1.
This is the jumper location. To select ground or 12 Volts for your FIdle, you solder in a wire from the center hole to either the hole at the G end, or the hole at the V end. For example, some solenoids have only one wire, and are grounded through the case, so they must have the relay board supply 12 volts. In this case set the jumper to 'V'. Some people have been using an auxiliary air regulator for fast idle control. You just hook up 12 volt, ignition switched, and you are ready to run.
Use 12 volts from the fuel pump relay. If the engine is not actually running you do not want it powered up, as it will move to the 'warm' position even though the engine isn't running. Mount the regulator to the engine such that engine heat can keep the valve closed when you do not need any additional air for warmup. During cold starts, the auxiliary air valve opens to allow additional air into the inlet duct. As engine heats up, a bi-metallic element expands and closes valve. For ignition triggering with MegaSquirt-II, see this page.
For some installations, however, getting a decent tach signal may require some trial and error. Now, with that said, almost all of the people experiencing tach problems have worked them out by experimentation with different components or alternative trigger methods. Does not seem to be the most direct method, but with so many different setups out there, it is the only thing that can be done.
Things to try if you experience tach noise:. This can make idle and off-idle tuning difficult. This is a 0. The V3 main board has the Dave capacitor 'built in' as C Many other capacitors can be used, including 0. People have used capacitors rated as low as 50 volts, however higher rated caps with better withstand the voltage spikes of up to Volts that can appear in the tach signal. This will filter all of the oscillations and noise in the coil that are less than 22 Volts and triggered only on the induced voltage spike when the coil fires.
In rare cases you might need more than 22 Volts - you can use Zener diodes in series all bands towards the coil - term. For example, two 5. You can also try Peter Florance's trigger filter. It has worked well on a number of installations. Instruction and schematics are in the download section of the forum, at Peter Florance Tach Circuit.
You use this in parallel with the existing HEI module, in that the VR sensor wires hook up to both modules. Here is how to wire it up. W and G ; hook up to the VR sensor parallel with the existing module. Hook C to the tach lead on the MegaSquirt box.
Be sure to mount the HEI module such that the metal bottom is connected to ground either engine or chassis. The module will not get hot, since there is not much load the resistor , but the metal still needs to be grounded.
And the HEI module presents a high-impedance to the VR sensor circuit, so you can parallel with an existing ignition set-up without harm.
It is possible to trigger off of the - terminal of the coil, and in many cases it is successful - Bruce has been running this way for a year, so have others. It is not possible to predict in advance what value will work with which ignition.
The appropriate assembly guide for your main board has details on this. For more information on resets, see this. Some things you can try are: Run resistor spark plugs. If you are running non-resistor plugs, remove them and put in resistor plugs. This is essential - non-resistor plugs do not make a hotter spark, but they do make a lot of electromagnetic noise, and are totally unsuitable for EFI applications.
Make sure your coil is well grounded if this is an HEI coil, note that the body of the coil must be grounded - HEI 7-pin in-cap coils have a metal strap for this purpose, and they are often misplaced. Reduce the cranking next pulse tolerance , or the afterstart or normal running next pulse tolerance as needed.
For Hall sensors, taking the signal right off of the hall sensor works nicely. The value of the pull-up resistor, as well as the ohm series resistor, may need to be adjusted. There are plenty of people on the msefi.
The VR sensor is an induction type sensor, it is passive;, i. It basically works like a dynamo. The output of this sensor varies with the speed of the engine.
At idle the output is approximately. You have to keep in mind that this type of sensor produces an AC output. The pulse is positive when the pole is approaching, and negative when the pole is leaving provided you have the right polarity.
The simplest way to see this is by hooking it up to a cheap analog voltmeter and using a wrench or other non magnetic - soft iron; piece of metal. When you put the metal piece on the sensor the needle on the voltmeter will swing one way. When you quickly remove it the needle will swing the other way. A Hall sensor is an active magnetic field presence sensor. It is based on the Hall effect, that is a semiconductor changes its resistance in a presence of a magnetic field.
These types of sensors require a flying magnet wheel. Instead of teeth on the wheel you must have small magnets. This type of sensor has an electronic circuitry built inside and thus provides a constant voltage pulse regardless of the speed. The sensor is also sensitive to the polarity of the magnet. N pole will turn it on, S will not, or vice versa dependent on the orientation of the sensor.
The pulse produced is as long as there is a magnetic field of some strength present, and is always of the same polarity positive with respect to ground. VR sensors are cheap and very rugged, Hall effect sensors are much smaller, more expensive, and nearly as rugged.
If you cannot get any of the above suggestions to work, then another trigger source, like an external VR sensor with a crank wheel, will work. This will require more work on the user end, but if the situation leads you to this, then this is all that can be done.
MegaSquirt cannot handle a capacitive discharge ignition CDI output directly. The CDI primary voltage is around V. Cut off a piece long enough to run out of the back.
Then use a flare tool to make a small lip on both ends to act as a barb. You can then hook it up with a short piece of vacuum tube, and ran the brass tube out the back panel.
Or you can insert the rubber or vinyl MAP-Bulkhead tubing in a short length of heat shrink tubing before installing it, and shrink it carefully once it is in place. This insulates the tubing, and holds the tubing tighter on the barbs. You can also use it to hold it on the barbs on both sides of your bulkhead fitting. Heat shrink tubing is non-conductive [by design] and relatively resistant to puncture and abrasion.
Choose an appropriate size so you do not collapse the tube. On the relay board, the grounds for the coolant temperature sensor, air temperature sensor, and TPS are all brought in separately through pins 14, 17, and 19 on JP1 , and feed pin 19 of the DB They then travel through a wire connecting the pins 19 at either end of the cable.
The relay board cable is designed to have a return wire that goes from the relay board DBpin 19 to a common ground on the MegaSquirt PCB. You can do this by:. In both cases you will need three temperature resistance pairs. Check that your TPS connections are sound.
If you have a problem where in which you: Check all of the connections at the DB37 ad the TPS itself as well as the relay board if you are using one. It will also run jerky while cruising. If this happens, check your TPSdot threshold setting on the enrichments page of TunerStudioMS - if this is really low, then you will get erroneous triggers due to small noise spikes or bit error.
Generally, you should use a value of 0. If the above doesn't solve the TPS accel enrichment events, check to see that the TPS wires are not near spark plug wires that could introduce noise. Also, check to make sure that the TPS ground wire has a good connection - this could also cause random accel triggers.
Watch the runtime screen at idle to see if the TPS number bounces around. Verify that it is in correctly see the assembly manual for your main board. If it isn't, unsolder it, turn it around, and solder it back in.
You will have to bend the pins the other way - be careful not to break them. You probably haven't damaged any components by installing the MAP sensor backwards.
If you find your MAP gauge is reading somewhat low , or doesn't seem to go all the way to kPa in relation to a boost gauge, for example , we can't be sure if is the MegaSquirt being low or the boost gauge being high. Below is a scan of the label from the syringe know to work, so you know what to ask for at any drug store though virtually any syringe will do.
Take the needle off and screw the syringe directly into the vacuum line, then compress the syringe and you should get 'boost'. Check that you have 5. At normal sea level, the MAP sensor signal on the board pin 1, the pin closest to D4 will be 1.
With the syringe fully compressed but not bottomed out , you should be able to get at least 4. If not, touch up the soldering on the MAP sensor pins.
Imsges: how do you hook up a voltmeter gauge
If you train changes speed as it crosses between booster districts, you may have the boosters set to different output voltages. The voltage between the left or right terminal and the neutral terminal should be It's no accident that this recommendation is the first in the track wiring section.
And you should drill a very tiny hole inside of the top and bottom flange of the case to allow moisture to escape if mounted under hood. Since long trains of lighted passenger cars sometimes necessitate the use of a slower shutdown mechanism, other boosters can probably accommodate the use of bulbs as well. I stumbled along it looking for a fix for my battery gauge.
Make sure the wire you use is rated for 20 percent more. Is it emission legal? This includes things like Frog Juicers and auto reversing controllers. How many times have you checked the rail on the top is the one you are about to connect a wire to. Hoo, and peak-to-peak refer to a ground reference. Also, if the volts at the processor pin gets very near 5.
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