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hook up two light switches one power source

But the normally-open EOS switch is connected to the upper flipper. You will see a rather long piece of metal with a pivot for the piano wire. Unlike other games, BW has large power transformer in the lower cabinet, instead of the backbox. Replace the conduit body cover, checking proper fit of the gasket. In a 2 wire home like mine - meaning no 3rd ground wire in the outlet box or the outlets in the home.

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If you are using ground throws, you can use a switch built into some of them. Making circuit board throw bars is not fun. Carbide, on the other hand, cuts smoothly. Time to load test! The main, distinguishing feature of a 4-wire auto reverse unit is that it does not require separate triggering zones.

Pretty much all you have to do is cut on either side of the frog with a razor saw and drop a power routing feeder to it. If the frog rails are already insulated on an existing layout or you are planning to do so on a new layout, then you need only do one cut prior to the frog on the closure rails. This is not as "ideal" as a fully DCC friendly turnout. You will still be susceptible to wheels shorting between the point and stock rails. Of course, if you wheels are way out of gauge or your turnouts are, then you really do have a mechanical problem you should solve and you should not be looking for a work-around.

Assuming your wheels are in gauge, than an occasional derailment could still cause a short between these two rails. While I have not done a serious study of which area of a turnout shorts the most, it seems that wheels picking points is where a derailment frequently occurs. The train frequently makes it past this point. The short occurs when the twisted truck hits the frog.

While it would be nice to know if this is fact, it is not important; a half DCC friendly turnout is better than not at all. If going the full DCC friendly route seems like too much trouble, or is too much trouble, give this idea a thought as you consider your options below. One of the diagrams in the top section shows a light bulb being used for short circuit protection.

This is primarily intended for overzealous, junior or soon to be demoted! This would cause a short on a power routed frog turnout of any kind; DCC friendly or not. Insulated frog turnouts do not have this minor problem and do not need the light bulb. Unfortunately, many locomotives cannot make it across an unpowered or insulated frog. The light bulb is optional with either of the switch types shown. I suggest that you use a bulb for the first type of turnout. I definitely recommend it for the second type.

It is more likely with this second switch type that a person might accidentally get too close to the power routed portion of the switch and short out the system. See the track wiring section for more information on using light bulbs. Let the bulbs dangle so they do not touch anything. You do not want to risk fire. If a short does occur that is guarded by a bulb, you will know it.

Not only will your train stop, but your feet will light up, too! What is Power Routing? This section is for those that are unfamiliar with power routing. Power routing was popular during the days of DC block control.

It was a way for using specially built turnouts to turn the power on or off to a siding or yard track automatically. For example, this allowed you to pull a train into a siding and have it stay there automatically when the turnout was thrown back to the main line.

Generally, no additional switches or wiring was necessary. Given that DC block operations required control panels and lots of switches, you can see the appeal; especially where a yard was involved.

On a turnout, you must power route the frog or electrically insulate it. Now look at the frog of a turnout at the top of this section. When a train goes straight through, the left wheels will be in contact with the frog. When a train takes the diverging route, the right wheels will be in contact with the frog. Either the frog supplies the right polarity power to the wheels or insulate the frog and not supply any power at all. Not supplying power is the easy way out. Unfortunately, short locomotives that only have a few wheels picking up power may stall on an insulated frog.

Even long articulateds, like those from Rivarossi, only have two closely placed wheels on each side. Hence the need to route the correct polarity power to the frog - power routing! The switch shown power routing the frog can be implemented in any one of a number of ways. The important thing is that the switch is flipped at basically the same time the points flip. For those using power routed turnouts with wipers on the points, you will want to read this. If you are using ground throws, you can use a switch built into some of them.

Or you can add a micro switch. Burying a micro switch is more work, but the switch will last practically forever. For electrically powered turnouts, it is common practice to use contacts built into the switch machine or add a micro switch if no contacts are available. With typical power routed turnouts, the reliability conscientious modeler is faced with dilemma.

If the modeler counts on the manufacturer supplied point wipers look at a Shinohara or Peco for example to power route the frog, the modeler knows eventually these will fail and power routing via contacts or micro switch will be necessary. If the modeler adds the contacts or micro switch, a short may occur if the micro switch or contacts switch when one of the point rails is still in contact with wrong rail.

So the modeler is forced to disable the wipers on the turnout to eliminate the potential of a short. With DCC friendly turnouts, the point and the stock rail are at the same potential. So there is no potential of a short. Point wipers or not, there is simply nothing to worry about!

One way to make troubleshooting easier, is to limit how far reaching trouble can be. Power route only the frog. Some turnouts are designed such that the frog cannot be easily separated from the frog rails. You may power route the little bit leaving the turnout.

Furthermore, if you have blocks where they end by the fouling point of the turnout, it is logical to include this little extra bit of rail. This is how my railroad is set up. Power route no more than this! Besides limiting how far trouble can get, consider the 5 amp short. Points are not a good way of routing power to the closure rails. They are even worse for power routing a siding. Five amps at 16 volts is 80 watts of power. How hot is a 75 watt light bulb? Any resistance in the points or small or cheap switches power routing a frog, will "take" that 75 watts during a short.

Your plastic ties could melt! Wooden ties could catch fire! Homasote could catch fire! Not Even Single Stub Sidings. Some of you want to power route stub sidings.

I have heard all the reasons. Run two feeder wires to that stub siding just like you are going to do to everywhere else. I do not either; not even close. CD's were much more expensive than vinyl albums. One way or another, all of us are going to find a way to afford to put DCC decoders in all of our locomotives that we want to run. They are out there now! There are two reasons for doing this.

Both relate to short circuits during DCC operation. Shorts can occur when power pick up by the points occur on both sides at the same time. Also, when metal wheels roll through and contact both the stock rail and points at the same time.

A short can cause annoying interruptions to an entire layout. With 13 locomotives running, this was driving us nuts! The other reason is that a DCC short can have about 75 watts of power flowing through it.

Any points that have some resistance can cause a light bulb's worth of heat. This might be where the points contact the stock rails, where the wheels touch rails, or that joiner you use to connect the points to the closure rails.

This light bulb's worth of heat can melt ties and perhaps cause a fire. By attaching the stock rails to the point rails, a short by the wheels or the points to both stock rails is now unlikely. This alteration also eliminates the joiners between the closure rails and the points from being a potential hot spot. As far as I know, all DCC power boosters have short circuit protection.

Unfortunately, as a minimum, they shut down everything that booster is powering — commonly the entire railroad! With some systems that have multiple boosters, system wide shut down is a result. Some of us solve this problem by placing car brake light bulbs in series with track feeder sections. The bulb prevents a dead short from being seen by the booster.

Therefore, all other locomotives on that booster keep running; provided they are on a different track feeder section. An added bonus is that the light lights up indicating the location of the short! While this does prevent a short, it still permits a fair amount of power to flow — about 25 watts.

Needless to say, this still a good bit of heat. The bottom line is to do what is possible to avoid shorts. A DCC friendly turnout, as a minimum, has the points wired to the stock rails.

As a practical matter, it will also probably have the rails leading from the points to the frog wired likewise. Also, the rails leaving the frog can be wired to the appropriate stock rail. In short, Atlas is a good example of a DCC friendly turnout. This does not mean that the Atlas is the best DCC friendly switch. It is a good example of a turnout that is not power routed and is wired in the manner I suggest.

Follow the directions and make 1 turnout DCC friendly. Then make them assembly line fashion. Doing it this way, I can do 4 turnouts in 3 hours. Owners of Existing Layouts. DCC friendliness is desirable, but not essential.

If you have an existing layout, you need not consider uprooting your turnouts to make them DCC friendly. That is a heck of a lot of work! The risk of damage to the turnouts may be too high. Depending on the make of turnout, the degree of effort may vary. Evaluate the situation based on your ability to do the job successfully without doing harm to your turnouts.

For the moment, do not worry about DCC friendliness. Definitely forget those that are hard to reach or in tunnels. What do you do if you forgo making your turnouts DCC friendly? Do not worry, the locusts will not come. There are ways to avoid being eternally cursed. The easiest thing, but definitely not the cheapest, is to use lots of boosters. Each booster would control a small, rather than a large, area of your railroad.

You could go as far as having a booster for each town. In this case, only one operator would probably be affected. Your level of frustration will not be any worse than it is now with your existing railroad and rolling stock. A note for the old Digitrax Big Boy owners: Shorts on the booster attached to the throttle acting as a command station may shut down the whole railroad.

So some people do not use it attached to any track. Or they use it with track that sees little activity. Definitely do not make it part of a yard! The Chief does not have this problem. So if you have not upgraded to the Chief, this may be your incentive. A lot cheaper and actually easier than converting your turnouts, is to use a light bulb in series with the feeders to each turnout. Isolate each turnout by cutting all six rails going to it so you can feed it separately. Only one of the feeders needs the bulb.

The bulb has its draw back so be sure to read the track wiring section covering the bulbs. You can also put a circuit breaker in series with a turnout. The circuit breakers, while I think are quite reasonably priced, are not inexpensive and can add up to be more than going with a lot of boosters. If you want to use the circuit breakers, feed several turnouts through a single breaker. This will make the cost more palatable to you and make this an attractive alternative to the other options.

Drop a feeder from the point rail to the bus. Alternately, solder jumpers called bonds from each closure rail to the corresponding point rail. This ensures good electrical contact as the years go by. This will also prevent the hinge point from becoming a hot spot should a short occur.

Do this even if you have a turnout with wipers that bring electrical power to the points from the stock rails. Sooner or later, this will also become a spot of poor electrical contact or a hot spot during a short.

Since some switch machines do not have the power to operate a turnout with bonds on it, dropping a feeder to the bus from the point is now the preferred approach. This is a solution everyone can use! Do this while the switch is new and easy to solder to! It will be a lot more work later.

Retirement is a time to enjoy your trains, not be fussing over your turnouts! You really should consider purchasing DCC friendly turnouts. Having worked on layout that has the non-friendly variety and no bulbs, they are worth it. Self power routing turnouts are a unending source of poor electrical contact and shorts. Metal wheels that derail at the points or touch both the stock rail and a point rail cause a short.

You are probably already aware of this. But the frequent shorts can drive a DCC layout crazy. How frequent these really are may become painfully apparent when you go with DCC or any form of command control.

Those people who desire to have their points prototypically close to the stock rails, will especially want to consider DCC friendly turnouts. If you will be using unmodified turnouts, then I suggest the following: I suggest you put a switch in series with your power routing contacts and the turnout's stock rails.

Also completely isolate the turnout with insulated joiners. At least when the turnout's power routing contacts fail, the turnout can be quickly isolated. Perhaps your group can resume operation while you repair or replace the turnout. Amazingly, the mini toggle switches cost more than standard size toggle switches. There are variations on this switch idea. If you use a switch machine with slide on connectors of some type, then this connector can serve as your disconnect switch.

You can also put light bulbs in series with the feeds to the turnout. At least make sure the electrical section served by turnout is protected by a bulb. I prefer both of these approaches over connecting your feeds to a screw terminal strip. If you use the switch or slide on connectors instead of the bulb, you can quickly flip switches until you find the troubling turnout.

If your use the screw terminal strip, you are, as they say, screwed. If you soldered all your connections, well then, I believe that is called a cluster fire truck or something like that. Do you get the impression everyone knows how to wire a turnout but you? This section of the website was written for you. This section assumes that you have read everything above that is present on this web page. This section also assumes you are following the good practice of not power routing through the points.

Finally, it is assumed that you will also follow the good practice of not using your power routing turnout to selectively power your sidings.

This section will explain and give you a few examples on how to wire a turnout. Select your manufacturer from the menu bar at left. If you do not see your manufacturer listed, the examples below should provide you with sufficient guidance.

Generally, turnouts can be classified as one of several types. They are shown below. Additionally, some have an insulated frog that receives no electrical connection.

For these, you can look at type 1 to understand how generally to wire that such a turnout. Remember, look at the specific instructions listed with your manufacturer's turnout for details. The frog rails are not electrically connected to the frog - DCC Friendly. This type of turnout is typical of Atlas, Kato, Roco, the new Micro Engineering turnout, and the new Walther's turnout. The frog rails are electrically connected to the frog - DCC Friendly.

Points, frog, and frog rails connected together - not DCC Friendly. All the rails in red must be electrically connected to all other red rails. The same goes for the blue and the green rails.

In order to properly wire a turnout, all of the following must be done: You will need insulated joiners as shown. You do not need these insulated joiners on type 1 turnouts. The rails in green must be connected to your power routing switch or switch machine. The bulb is optional. If your bus is powered through a bulb you do not need a bulb attached to your turnout as shown in the above schematics. Your power routing switch or switch machine must be connected to your bus shown in red and blue above.

Make these connections temporarily. It may be difficult to determine which terminal on your power routing switch goes to which bus. Murphy's Law says that you will get it wrong on the first try.

If the locomotive shorts when it hits the frog, you have it wrong and will need to swap the connections on your power routing switch. However, Murphy's Law says that you will get it wrong on the second try as well.

Below I explain step-by-step how to hook up a Tortoise switch machine to your frog. For all turnouts shown, you must solder a wire to each stock rail and connect it to bus as shown in the color coded drawings above. On some type 1 turnouts, you will need to make a connection to the bus as shown. Most manufacturers of type 1 turnouts connect the frog rails to the stock rails, so you probably don't need to do anything.

See the instructions for your particular turnout. Check your turnout with an ohm meter if you are in doubt. If the locomotive stalls on the frog rails, then you probably need to make the electrical connection to the bus.

If you have converted a type 3 turnout to be DCC friendly, you will need to connect the frog rails to the bus. On some turnouts, you will need to make a connection to the bus as shown. Most manufacturers of type 1,2 turnouts connect the closure rails to the stock rails, so you probably don't need to do anything. If your closure rails are not connected to your stock rails, connect your stock rails to your bus.

If you have converted a type 3 turnout to be DCC friendly, you will need to connect your closure rails to your bus. Unless your turnout has closure rails and point rails that are all one piece with no moving parts such as Tillig and BK Enterprises , you will need to follow this instruction. This is even if your manufacturer has provided an electrical connection based on a hinge or wipers touching the stock rails. Over time, these connections will become corroded and stop making good electrical contact.

You are smarter to make a soldered connection now while the turnout is new because you will have a lot easier time soldering it now then after it has corroded.

Make a connection between your point rails and the bus. Make a connection between your point rails and your power routing switch or switch machine. If you are not familiar with insulated frogs, read the Newbie Notes, Types of Frogs and What type of frog is best for me?

Insulated frogs are simple. You simply don't hook anything up to them. When looking at the drawings in this website, the frog is usually fed by a green wire. You simply don't need the green wire. Most drawings in this website only show a wired frog.

In these cases, you not only don't need the green wire, but you can also do away with the switch that performs the power routing. In the example below, if you were using an insulated frog, you would eliminate the green wire as well as the power routing switch. Here's a situation where you don't need the green wire going to the frog, but you still need the power routing switch as well as everything else that is shown.

Getting the Frog Polarity Right Typically, a frog is power routed through some sort of electrical switch. The switch may be attached to a ground throw or a switch machine. You will need to hook your bus wires to the switch.

Which way do you hook the wires? If you hook them up wrong, locomotives will short when they cross the frog. There are at least four ways to get the frog polarity right: Carefully think it through. Murphy's Law will make sure you get it wrong.

Do you have your meter handy? A locomotive should work, but if you don't have all-wheel power pick-up, you may think you have it right when you don't. DCC offers you a practical alternative that you never really had before - intentionally testing the frog by shorting it to the appropriate stock, closure, or point rail.

You can do this with a piece of wire or a test lead with alligator clips at each end. This method is as fast as a meter but slightly more convenient. You don't have to carry your meter around with its six feet of dangling and tangling test leads. Three short clip leads is all you need.

Their part number is What I have shown is for a DCC friendly switch! If you are not using a DCC friendly switch, when I say touch the point rail below, touch the adjacent stock rail instead. Before I explain how to wire a Tortoise, I want to give you a heads up. I will be referring to the buses below by their color I have shown - red and blue. Your bus wires don't have to be red or blue. In fact, I use black and white for my buses on my model RR.

However, putting a white colored wire on a white page wouldn't show up very well on my website. That's the only reason my diagrams don't show white and black wires. Also, the Tortoise has two internal switches that can be used to power route a frog. You can use either one. To keep confusion down, I will only refer to one of them.

It really is simple and will only take about 10 minutes. Is this particularly cold or within the normal winter range, and how is it possible for animals to be affected in these ways? Also, why do we not see mass freezing of land animals before sea animals are affected, given the relative stability of ocean temperatures?

I work in a restaurant where the chef saves time by parboiling potatoes and leaving them in the water overnight, then roasting them the following day. To stop the potatoes discolouring overnight, he puts a slice of brown bread in the water. Is this an old wives' tale or does this really work? And does it have to be brown bread? Can anyone identify it? In countries where there are lots of stray cats and dogs, many are in poor condition, especially compared with the truly wild animals that live in the same places.

The battle for survival must be incredibly tough for all these animals. Is it because feral domesticated animals can somehow live on in poor health through their association with humans, whereas nature would ruthlessly pick off any weaklings in the wild animal population?

The red wire goes to one terminal on the breaker and the black goes to the other. In a 2 wire home like mine - meaning no 3rd ground wire in the outlet box or the outlets in the home.

It is acceptable in my jurisdiction to put the green ground wire to an open common terminal. It is not appropriate to use the ground wire for the common at the outlet. Now it is time to lock down that breaker from moving.

Install the retaining bracket. My retaining bolt was located between the main breakers and the 30 amp breaker. Turn the panel back over and install the sliding interlock bolts. Reinstall the panel with all the breakers in the off position. With the main in the off position turn the generator breaker to the on position. Ensure the interlock allows for the on position. You may have to shift the position of the panel cover. Turn the generator breaker to the off position and drop the slide so it can not be turned on.

Ensure the Main can be turned to the on position. Adjust panel cover if it will not. If it does turn the breakers on one a at a time - with a 5 second delay between breakers. This will distribute the start up load. Attach decals included in your kit to your breaker box and the outside service box. Avoid turning on HVAC, standard hot water heater and the stove unless your generator can handle it.

As long as you can get past the initial start up load you can run a lot off of 30 amps. Enjoy your set up. It has come in very handy for us. We can turn on overhead lights, wash clothes and keep our foo. A couple of things,that I can see that would help your project would be to install a ground rod on the generator or the box leading to the generator grounding the circuit. It could preclude instances of getting shocked if touching something energized a hotplate and a device already installed in the home the stove, range hood etc..

Adding a ground rod would help. Also don't run any high end appliances while on generator unless you keep a close eye on the fuel level. When the generator runs out of fuel, it dosen't just stop, it runs down. While it is doing this it will decrease the amount of voltage to the house. Find an old picture tube type TV if ya have to have a TV. You do not know what is happening 'upstream' from you and could introduce power to lines currently being worked on.

I have an almost exact setup to yours with a pair of load meters added and, except for the above mentioned step-order change, virtually identical startup procedures. One thing I discovered during my research on this method was the vague definitions and codes regarding portable generator grounding. Several authoritative sources have said to paraphrase: Technically, in order to be code compliant, it needs to be determined if the neutral and ground are separated at the generator.

I can now select between a 'floating' neutral, where the grounded-at-the-box neutral is provided by my breaker box wiring, or a 'tied' neutral, which uses the generator frame as ground which, again, supposedly requires a ground rod to be attached. The SDS requirements for portable generators appear to have been generally overlooked since so many are sold to customers like ourselves who want to use them as emergency home supplies, which wasn't their original intent.

Once again, great, informative submission. You showed the handcrafted illegal male to male cord. But you failed to show the cord and pictures of the wall outlet configuration. Everything is very clear here but you start out showing a very common failure point using but then show no step focusing on the cord connections.

What is hidden is how the plugs to the outside wall outlet. Yes, it shows it plugged in but there should be more detail at this juncture because that is the correction of the firstly mentioned failure. There's a paste that you apply to the wires if you do have to connect aluminum and copper wiring together. I also believe this is the most economical and adequate way all around. I also believe that the receptacle back-feed is only risky for the know-nothing and can be employed it in an emergency all that needs to be done is open the main breaker.

The breaker interlock is a very efficient way to power your dwelling with a generator but does not let you know when the power comes back on as you completely disconnect from the utility provided power.

With this set up a light or radio not on the generator can alert you as to when the power from the utility provider comes back on. Installation of a manual transfer switch however is not for novices and should be installed by a qualified electrician. I would not recommend to use two male ended AC plugs.

However that's exactly what I've been doing for the past 30 years. Never had the finances to go more fancy. One VAC male plug is plugged into the generator. The other end is plugged into the workshop's outdoor VAC plug. Then the generator is started. The 8KW Generac generator runs the whole house with a heavy underground cable to the house, from the workshop.

Under normal conditions, it's the house's commercial power that runs the workshop. But with the generator being a decent distance away from the house, noise is not a problem when the Generac is running, and providing the power. The generator is manually started, so all of these steps need to be paid attention to. My breaker box has the main shutoff at the bottom and the first breaker is not close to it. Is there a different kit for that type box? And it seems the kit simply does not allow the generator input breaker to be thrown unless the main if off first.

Am I seeing this correctly. Hi wondering about the cord setup Looks like cord plug has to be male at generator , is receptacle at wall box male style and female end of cord attatches to that.

Imsges: hook up two light switches one power source

hook up two light switches one power source

Example demonstrating shorting technique. If you have trouble wiring frogs with the correct polarity. If you do not yet own a carbide blade, here is the excuse you were looking for to buy one.

hook up two light switches one power source

Personally I don't see the big difference all things equal, like amount of flipper part wear.

hook up two light switches one power source

This section assumes that you have read everything above that is present on this web page. This would cause a short on a power routed frog turnout of any kind; DCC friendly or not. We just haven't tried them. I do not either; not even close. If you have at least one feature under both groups, then you have a turnout that is not 50 plus dating nz Friendly at all. Also, you cannot order from ligth website. Installation of a hook up two light switches one power source transfer switch however is not for novices and should be installed by a qualified pwer.